We were travelling mostly on sealed tarmac, but the heat is blistering and the landscape is relentlessly monotonous, broken only by occasional herds of wild camel trotting along or across the roadway.
Fuel for the bikes remains a challenge out here. Most fuel stops only offer diesel, and the occasional one with unleaded (called 'essence') must be decanted from plastic drums. The fuel filter has truly been given a field test, with lots of sediment present in the filter mesh after each pour. Trying to keep the carburettors clean when dealing with contaminated fuel and swirling sand.
Lunch was a pleasant surprise, cooked and eaten roadside enroute. It was a delicious stew of carrots and camel meat, spoiled only by the ever present crunchy grit of Saharan sand. By that stage though, three of us were ravenous and it was poured down out necks without chewing.
No lunch for Ty though, who is suffering from recurrent dysentery, and this is making life on the road extremely uncomfortable for him.
The people of Northern Mauritania are desert people called touaregs. They are incredibly tall and quite fierce looking in their flowing blue robes, but then they smile and offer such a happy demeanour that it is in stark contrast to first impressions.
Arriving in Nouakchott in the mist of evening and after 500km of heat, we looked a very sticky and dehydrated bunch.
Nouakchott is regarded as one of the world's dirtiest capital cities. This label is perhaps a little unfair, given that it is perched on the doorstep of the world's largest desert which blows fine particles of sand all year round. The streets, buildings, and everything in them are coated in a film of silica that leaves a gritty residue.
Despite this, the general vibe is upbeat and friendly. We seem to attract helpers everywhere, people just keen to have a chat and share some time with us. This African version of hospitality has been so invaluable in helping us navigate both streets and customs - I'm really enjoying their company.
