The only way to describe this region is vast. I thought that my experiences driving throughout the Pilbara might be similar, but nothing could have prepared us for this lonely endlessness. The wind gusts and tears across the plains unimpeded by any landforms, causing the bikes to can't over at an alarming angle.
Even the bugs are on a grand scale, as Gary discovered during one rest break.
The military presence is evident everywhere now, and we have needed to provide passport and document fiche in order to continue.
There are two opportunities for accomodation this evening - the coastal settlement of Tan Tan or sleeping rough in the Sahara. Believe me, it's a tossed coin.
Tan Tan appears to have no reason for existence. It sits more than 250km from anything, anything at all. There is a military base nearby, and a couple of blocks offering rudimentary hotels, but very little else in the way of amenity. Groups of youths roam the streets, and the atmosphere is generally unfriendly. This is the first time that we have held some concern for the security of our bikes overnight, even though they are well-locked and secured.
Tonight we will just bunker down in the hotel and hit the road first thing tomorrow morning. Destination tomorrow is Laayounne, but the only coordinates we can locate are for the refugee camp so we will head there first and then ask where we can sleep for the night.
Laayounne, also spelled El-Aaiún, El-Ayoun, Aaiún, or Aiun, is about 8km inland. It was previously the capital of Western Sahara from 1940 to 1976 (when Western Sahara was known as Spanish Sahara). Since 1976 it has been the capital of the Laâyoune province of Morocco, but is not internationally recognized.
More photos to come later on tonight if we can get a stable wifi connection.
