James was down for the count this morning. Unfamiliar with this type of travel, he has been suffering for the past few days with mild medical issues and exhaustion. There is no magical cure for this, just a fistful of pharmaceuticals and rest.
To use the time, Ty Gary and I decided to go off-route to explore the Atlas Mountains this morning. They are less than a hundred kilometres from Marrakech and it seemed a shame to miss them when we are so close. The mountains are not as spectacular as many alpine ranges in Europe or the Americas, but are still impressive nonetheless.
Parking in a small village, we crossed small streams via rickety bridges before starting the climb up to the first waterfall. A local guide assured us that the first stage was very easy and only took twenty minutes. Clearly he was measuring in Moroccan minutes, because an hour and a half later, covered in sweat, we reached the first waterfall.
This location is popular with locals seeking to escape the oppressive dry heat of Marrakech in summer.
On the way back down, the guide (who spoke halting English) proudly showed us the most inaccessible cafe in the world. Clinging precariously to a cliff edge, it is indeed a full service cafe, with goods kept cool by storing them under a constant freezing spray from a mountain stream. Goods are brought in once a week by donkey coming over the mountain passes.
We were amused by the guide telling us about a group of French students who came to the Atlas Mountains to study the monkey species here. The students were currently holed up in a guesthouse wondering what to do, because every time they climb up towards them, the monkeys roll large rocks over the edges. Perfect self defence from prying eyes.
The guide and I concocted a cunning plan to offer them a special tour at 500 dirhams each to see the elusive Moroccan gorilla: Ty (see photo).
After returning to Marrakech, we collected James and set out to cover the 200km or so to Agadir. As we head further south towards Western Sahara we are definitely noticing an increased military presence, with frequent checkpoints and semi trailers carrying tanks and other heavy equipment moving on the road. Despite this, everyone we meet remains incredibly welcoming and hospitable. They are very solicitous and determined to ensure that we have a good impression of Morocco.