What Luis lacked in teeth, he more than made up for in enthusiasm. A running tourist commentary was maintained, even as he wove maniacally through the traffic. I'm sure he didn't really understand the question when I asked him how many pedestrians he killed each day, because his deadpan answer was "35".
The Old Medina had not changed much since our last visit, but this is hardly surprising given that it has existed for more than a thousand years. The rabbit warren of twisting old lanes are a quiet respite from the oily traffic, broken only by occasional men offering a friendly salaam in greeting.
